‘Fashion or art? It doesn’t have to be one or the other’: 16Arlington’s Marco Capaldo on turning curator for new London show
2024-10-07
Unlocking the Secrets of Memory and Imagination: A Captivating Exploration at Frieze No.9 Cork Street
Stepping into the Memories of the Future exhibition at Frieze No.9 Cork Street, visitors are immediately captivated by the juxtaposition of the old and the new. Curated by 16Arlington's creative director Marco Capaldo and presented by Almine Rech, the exhibition showcases a remarkable blend of iconic artworks and emerging talents, inviting viewers to embark on a thought-provoking journey through the realms of memory and imagination.
Bridging the Past and the Future: A Curatorial Vision Unveiled
Warhol's Orchids: A Timeless Encounter
One of the exhibition's standout pieces is a pair of polaroids by the legendary Andy Warhol, capturing the ethereal beauty of orchids. The fleshy petals and fluid forms of the flowers, set against a stark white background, evoke a primordial elegance that transcends time. Yet, the harsh lighting and the glimpse of the humble plastic pot in the frame lend a distinctly modern touch, blending the timeless and the contemporary in a quintessential Warhol fashion.For Capaldo, these Warhol polaroids hold a personal significance, as they were the first works of art that deeply moved him. This experience has profoundly shaped his approach to fashion design, including his recent S/S 2025 catwalk show at the Royal Academy of Arts, which featured sculptures by the artist Jesse Pollock.
Memories as Inspiration: Capaldo's Curatorial Journey
Capaldo's own memories have also played a pivotal role in shaping the exhibition. In 2021, the passing of his 16Arlington co-founder and partner, Federica 'Kikka' Cavenati, has had a profound impact on Capaldo's creative process. Each of 16Arlington's collections since then has paid homage to Cavenati's enduring influence, as Capaldo navigates the complex terrain of memory and hope.This personal connection to the theme of the exhibition is evident in Capaldo's curatorial approach. During the early stages of the show's development, a chance encounter with a Warhol biography and a pressed flower from Cavenati's funeral bouquet triggered a flood of memories, leading Capaldo to the collector who owns the largest collection of Warhol's orchid polaroids.
Iconic Voices and Emerging Talents: A Harmonious Dialogue
Alongside the Warhol polaroids, the exhibition features other iconic works, such as John Giorno's Dial-A-Poem "free poetry service" from 1970, which allows visitors to hear the voices of literary legends like William Burroughs and Allen Ginsberg. Capaldo sees these pieces as a "real connection with the past," where the memories of these artists live on through their recorded voices.The exhibition also showcases the work of emerging talents, including paintings by George Rouy, Rhea Dillon, and Remi Ajani, as well as a sculpture by Jesse Pollock from the S/S 2025 catwalk show. This juxtaposition of established and up-and-coming artists creates a dynamic dialogue, inviting visitors to explore the interplay between the past, present, and future.
Memories and Moments: The Poignant Nod of Sandra Poulson's Installation
One of the most captivating aspects of the exhibition is an installation by Sandra Poulson, situated at the heart of the space. Capaldo describes it as "a poignant nod to the theme of the show, since some of the most beautiful memories and some of the most difficult memories happen around a dining table." This immersive work serves as a powerful reminder of the profound impact that everyday moments and shared experiences can have on our memories and our sense of self.
Curating the Intersection of Art and Fashion
For Capaldo, the act of curating the Memories of the Future exhibition is not entirely distinct from his work as a fashion designer. He sees both disciplines as an "attraction and an admiration for useful things, for talented people and for inquisitive minds." The exhibition, much like his fashion collections, is a testament to Capaldo's ability to translate ideas into a visually compelling and emotionally resonant form.As visitors immerse themselves in the Memories of the Future exhibition, they are invited to embark on a captivating journey that blends the past, present, and future. Through the lens of iconic artworks and emerging talents, the exhibition encourages a deeper exploration of the complex and ever-evolving nature of memory and imagination, inviting us to reflect on the enduring power of human creativity and the enduring connections that transcend time.