Unmasking the Artistry: Ensor's Legacy and the Transformative Power of Beauty

In a captivating exhibition at MoMu – Fashion Museum Antwerp, "Masquerade, Make-Up & Ensor" delves into the intricate relationship between the avant-garde artist James Ensor and the ever-evolving world of contemporary creativity. This multifaceted exploration sheds light on the profound impact of masks, makeup, and the pursuit of beauty, both in Ensor's pioneering work and in the diverse artistic expressions of today.

Unveiling the Transformative Interplay of Art, Fashion, and Identity

Ensor's Enduring Influence: Challenging Conventions, Embracing Artifice

As a founding member of the avant-garde group Les XX, James Ensor is celebrated as one of Belgium's most influential proto-modernist artists. Throughout his prolific career, the recurring motif of "the mask" served as a powerful tool for Ensor, often referencing the make-up trends of the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Art historian Susan M Canning's insightful observation highlights the disruptive and transgressive nature of Ensor's work, where "masking, make-up and arrangements of masks […] promote the disruptive and transgressive subterfuge of artifice."The exhibition at MoMu – Fashion Museum Antwerp delves into the multifaceted ways in which Ensor's artistic vision has inspired and influenced contemporary creative figures. From paintings and photographs to scrapbooks and multimedia installations, the exhibition presents a captivating exploration of the enduring impact of Ensor's work on the realms of fashion, beauty, and identity.

Unraveling the Complexities of Beauty Ideals and Persona

At the heart of the exhibition lies a profound exploration of the complex and ever-evolving nature of beauty ideals. The curators, Elisa De Wyngaert, Kaat Debo, and Romy Cockx, have meticulously curated a diverse array of works that challenge and subvert traditional notions of beauty, identity, and the role of masks and makeup in shaping our perceptions.The exhibition features a range of thought-provoking works, from the mammoth self-portraits of Issy Wood, which highlight the artist's discomfort with being photographed, to the "grotesque and beautiful" characters of Genieve Figgis, whose canvases are set against a backdrop of lilac curtains adorned with large bows. These works, along with the disarming close-ups of Bruce Gilden's photography and Cindy Sherman's Head Shots series, delve into the idea of persona and the political aspects of beauty.

Celebrating the Artistry of Hair and Makeup Professionals

One of the most significant aspects of the exhibition is its recognition and celebration of the often-overlooked artistry of hair and makeup professionals. The curators have dedicated a dedicated space to the work of renowned make-up artist Inge Grognard, whose creations for Maison Martin Margiela between 1988 and 2008 are displayed almost like posters, with the respective products used to create them hanging in sandwich bags below.The exhibition also features the work of other influential hair and makeup artists, such as Julien d'Ys, whose cloud-like sculpture created for Wallpaper* in 2022 is on display, and the viral "porcelain doll" makeup created by Pat McGrath for John Galliano's Maison Margiela 2024 Spring Summer Artisanal collection.

Confronting the Complexities of Gender and Aging

The exhibition's exploration of the relationship between Ensor and contemporary creative figures extends to the complex issues of gender and aging. Ensor's own complicated relationship with women, as evidenced by his 1925 poem "On Women," which is deeply misogynistic, is juxtaposed with his frequent depictions of his mother, aunt, and sister.The exhibition delves into the societal perceptions and judgments surrounding women and their use of makeup, exploring the notion that "women wearing too much make-up is still perceived as, 'what is she hiding?' not 'oh, she wants to express herself.'" This theme is further explored in a poignant installation featuring a would-be bride surrounded by a sheer curtain, standing before a three-piece mirror, her extravagant Christian Lacroix gown and exaggerated hairstyle mirroring the fears and anxieties surrounding aging.Through these multifaceted explorations, "Masquerade, Make-Up & Ensor" invites visitors to confront the complexities of beauty, identity, and the transformative power of artistic expression. By bridging the past and present, the exhibition offers a captivating and thought-provoking journey that celebrates the enduring legacy of James Ensor and the diverse creative voices that continue to push the boundaries of art, fashion, and self-expression.